Block Printing Workshop - Bagru, India

One thing that long term travel hasn't been able to afford me is the ability to be as crafty as I want to be. It's been six months since I've touched a sewing machine or made anything and my hands can feel the creative absence. Traveling fills me with inspiration but I feel a bit creatively out of shape. My artistic muscles feel as though they are atrophying. So when we went back to Jaipur for a few days after Jodhpur, I looked into a block printing workshop to appease my creative hunger. We traveled to the Jai Texart Factory in Bagru, 30 km from  Jaipur for a 1 day block printing workshop. Bagru is a town that is famous for their expertise in block printing and more specifically, their printing with vegetable and natural dyes. The process is not only painstakingly laborious but anciently beautiful. It has been perfected over 1000+ years.

The workshop runs from 10am-5pm and I come out with two beautiful cotton scarves.

Let's get started.

_MG_2042Below are a few of the natural dyes that I will make reference too throughout the process. Bagru_2.1 Bagru_2.2STEP 1: WASHING

This step is important to rid the fabric of any impurities. In the olden days, they would use cow dung diluted in water to do this. My fabric was already treated so I began at step 2.


The fabric is dyed in cool water and harda powder. Think of this as a primer. Without this step, the dye will not absorb into the cotton properly.

Bagru_2 _MG_2061Once dyed, the fabric needs to lay flat and dry in the sunlight. (STEP 3) The fabric will have a yellowish tint after this step which will later disappear once washed.

Bagru_4 Below we are showed just how important this step is. Fabric that is not harda treated and harda treated are dipped into black dye and you can see the difference. The not harda treated fabric is the white fabric on the left, and the harda treated fabric is the yellow tinted fabric on the right.

Bagru_5 Bagru_6While the fabric is drying, we watch as colors are mixed. _MG_2072 Bagru_8 Bagru_9Just how these color recipes were made still blows me away. The recipe for black especially boggles my mind. Below are the colors used today...

BLACK: Horseshoes that sit on coals for a period of time, brushed of rust are then put in cans with water and sugar cane juice, left to ferment for periods of months to yield black dye.

RED: A mixture of natural gum paste and alum

BROWN: Red Kashish with water

We also had a little time to peek around the factory...

Bagru_10Bagru_11 Bagru_12 Bagru_13Bagru_16The guys here do it so effortlessly, some masters have been block printing for 30+ years. I'm about to find out how it's not as easy as it looks. My fabrics are ready now dry and primed for...


I first stretch and pin the fabric on the printing table and choose some blocks for my design. A master helps me start my border corners...

Bagru_14I find out quickly this takes precision. The block is placed from left to right and then slammed hard with your fist on the back of the handle for complete registration.

Bagru_15Bagru_17I finish the border and it's time to print with my outline block for my main zig-zag pattern.

Bagru_18 Bagru_19 Bagru_20 Bagru_21 Bagru_22 Bagru_23 Bagru_24Now time to fill those zig-zags. I choose red, which appears yellow at this point. It won't show as red until the last step when it is boiled with the presence of alizarin (root of Indian Madder Tree). Now I use the filling block which is like the inverse of the outline block. This is getting tricky!

Bagru_25 Bagru_26 Bagru_27I also print the border with brown dye and proceed to...


Bagru_28Bagru_29 Bagru_30Now that's I've practiced with one, I move on to scarf #2! This time I opt for a monochromatic geometric pattern using only black ink. Here we go! I'm also guided by a few other printers that help me with the print.

Bagru_31 Bagru_32Bagru_33 Bagru_34 Bagru_35 Bagru_36My hands at this point are sore from slamming the blocks (see the damage later) but my print is done and I am loving it! Time to lay it out to dry!

Bagru_37 Bagru_38 Bagru_39 Bagru_40We break for lunch while they dry.

We are showed the indigo dyeing pot and another part of the factory where they silk screen.

Bagru_41 Bagru_42 Bagru_43Once dried, we are ready for the next step!


The fabric is now ready to be washed in cool water.

Bagru_44 Bagru_45 Bagru_46The pieces are beaten against the concrete and ready for the final step...


This is where the color fasting takes place with the help of flowers from the Dhaura tree.

Pieces with red dye is boiled in a separate pot with alizarin which then turns the once yellowish color red.

Bagru_48 Bagru_49 Bagru_50 Bagru_51 Bagru_52Once boiled, they give it a quick rinse, quick spin to dry and they are done!!! They dry in the sun and I have two scarves that I'm ready to rock.

Bagru_53 Bagru_54bagru_55I even get a certificate at the end of the workshop!

Bagru_56So there you have it. A day of much needed creativity thanks to the team of Jai Texart!

A few days pass and the art pains are visible on my hands.

Beauty is pain.




Jaipur, India | Part 2

We decided to take a day trip out of Jaipur and I'm going to call it, the photography prohibited day trip. Nearly every attraction we visited did not allow photos, so my apologies for no visuals. I assure you it was interesting. We went to Ajmer and Puskar which are about a 2.5 hour drive out of Jaipur. The most interesting part of Ajmer was our visit to Dargah. After haggling with an auto rickshaw driver, me putting on a head scarf and Rick purchasing a Muslim cap, we dropped our shoes off in a random shop and walked barefoot (glad I got that tetanus shot in Finland) to the pilgrimage site. Inside people were praying, selling things, you name it. It was somewhat hectic upon entering but an interesting site nonetheless. We then got to Pushkar which is sort of like a mini Varanasi with bathing ghats around the small lake. It was quite photogenic, if only you could take photos (I sneaked a few below). They claim the photo discretion is for holy purposes but we soon find out it's really just about money. Isn't it always? If you don't buy flower offerings for a water side puja, you can't take photos. So sadly, the only photos I snapped from this day trip are the 5 below.  The last one is of our driver getting some pampering before we headed back.Pushkar_1 Pushkar_2Pushkar3Pushkar_4The next day once back in Jaipur we did our second round of sightseeing. We were off to City Palace and Hawa Mahal.

City Palace...Jaipur2_1 Jaipur2_2 Jaipur2_3 Jaipur2_4 Jaipur2_5 Jaipur2_6Hawa Mahal... Jaipur2_9 Jaipur2_10 Jaipur2_11 Jaipur2_12 Jaipur2_13 Jaipur2_14 Jaipur2_15 Jaipur2_16 Jaipur2_17While walking around the streets we stumbled across a photographer who shoots with an old 4x5 camera and develops and prints on the spot. This apparently is a family tradition that started with his grandfather. We were hooked! Jaipur2_19 Jaipur2_20 Jaipur2_21 Jaipur2_22 Jaipur2_23 Jaipur2_24And now for some street scenes...Jaipur2_8Jaipur2_18Jaipur2_25 Jaipur2_26 Jaipur2_27 Jaipur2_28 Jaipur2_29 Jaipur2_30 Jaipur2_31 Jaipur2_32 Jaipur2_33 Jaipur2_34 Jaipur2_35

Jaipur, India | Part 1

The first few days in Jaipur we were holed up in our hotel because we were both still battling Delhi Belly. Luckily I had picked up some antibiotics in Finland for just the bacterial occasion. We got tired of wavering between feeling starving and nauseous and grew tired of talking about our bathroom habits. Now as we are recovering we are dreaming about things like sushi, salads with artichoke hearts, fromage from France, gelato from Italy, and I even had a dream about a bakery with every kind of muffin in it. But then I woke up and realized I was far from any of my food fantasies. I love Indian food but after being sick for two weeks from what I suspect was a Malai Kofta dish which I ironically announced "This is the best Malai Kofta I've had," my body has begun to fear it and now I'm dreaming about baked goods.

We had enough strength on our fourth day to finally do a bit of sightseeing. We decided to head for the forts.  Amer Fort, Jaigarh Fort, & Nahagarh Fort. We finished off the day with Jal Mahal which stands in the middle of a lake.

Jaipur_Marianna Jamadi-1 Jaipur_Marianna Jamadi-2 Jaipur_Marianna Jamadi-3 Jaipur_Marianna Jamadi-4 Jaipur_Marianna Jamadi-5 Jaipur_Marianna Jamadi-6 Jaipur_Marianna Jamadi-7 Jaipur_Marianna Jamadi-8 Jaipur_Marianna Jamadi-9 Jaipur_Marianna Jamadi-10 Jaipur_Marianna Jamadi-11 Jaipur_Marianna Jamadi-12 Jaipur_Marianna Jamadi-13 Jaipur_Marianna Jamadi-14 Jaipur_Marianna Jamadi-15 Jaipur_Marianna Jamadi-16 Jaipur_Marianna Jamadi-17 Jaipur_Marianna Jamadi-18 Jaipur_Marianna Jamadi-19 Jaipur_Marianna Jamadi-20 Jaipur_Marianna Jamadi-21 Jaipur_Marianna Jamadi-22Jaipur_Marianna Jamadi-23 Jaipur_Marianna Jamadi-24 Jaipur_Marianna Jamadi-25 Jaipur_Marianna Jamadi-26Of course our driver then wanted to take us to some shops to close out the day but we kindly declined the cottage industry offer.